You know the drill by now…it’s Natacha here, checking in from the final days of Paris Fashion Week!
VIKTOR & ROLF MONOCHROME
Viktor and Rolf’s show at the Tuileries garden revealed how to push the envelope in all black and white. The signature bow was beautifully hand-worked and spruced up throughout the collection in an ornate yet delicate fashion. Ruffles, fur and lengthy legs were the name of the game at V&R.
CHANEL : BAD GIRL CHIC
The Chanel runway shows are always highly anticipated—for several reasons of course, but among them, primarily decor. The Chanel models walked a runway circling an enormous terrestrial globe under the glass roof of the Grand Palais. The collection is ”chic and sexy”, as declared by Karl Lagerfeld before specifying: “the sexy is subdued, not sexshop sexy.” The skirts are short, but the legs are covered with leather stockings, black or white, matte, patent, or even embroidered. A few centimetres of skin are visible between the stockings and the skirt. Somber colors dominates the silhouettes, with shades of black, grey, and navy blue—but not without the occasional pink. A rock vibe can be interpreted from boots with chains and embroideries that make the jackets sparkle! Overall, it was a magnificent show that pays high tribute to the French luxury market.
JAY ARH ROMANCE
Jay Ahr definitely embraced short skirts and dresses with a lot of leg action. If flashy and subtle joined forces, this collection would be the perfect depiction—statement pieces without overdoing it. The center dress in a soft blush flowed beautifully, and still exposed some leg in the middle as the model walked.
ELIE SAAB: ORNAMENTAL RIGOR
Black, white and petroleum blue silhouettes go head to head. Absinthe yellow softens out the darker colors. The strict lines of the outfits are balanced out by plays on transparence that are present throughout the collection. A very elegant collection, incredibly fine and detailed—with British embroidery, lace, sequins, and mesh, which seem to come straight out of an old Russian film.
THE MIGHTY WORLD OF LOUIS VUITTON
Along with Fendi, LV was my favorite show of Fashion Week. The collection, the decor, the models…all breathtaking.
The models walked the runway in a 20th century hotel where fifty doors opened in succession to divulge to the public silhouettes that would transport them to the post war period of the twenties. The length of the dresses varied from below the knees to above the ankles, and the choice of materials such as satin and alternations of sheer gave a very sexy vibe to the outfits. Kate Moss closed the show with a see-through dress entirely embroidered—a downright marvelous piece. Marc Jacobs goes above and beyond every new season and never ceases to amaze us.
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD : JEWELRY FOR THE FEETS
Our feet work hard—they deserve to be lathered up in a cocktail of snakeskin, fur, royal blue, lace and the likes. Award-winning Brit shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood killed it with his shoe collection preview during PFW. Heads up ladies, his new collab with Erdem is on its way as well.
YOUR WARDROBE MUST FOR NEXT FALL/WINTER
Next winter, furs and leathers will be amongst the most indispensable items.
With regards to color, if your wardrobe is principally black and white, then you’ll fit in perfectly with the monochrome trends favored highly by designers this season. Don’t hesitate to add a soft touch of pale pinks and sky blues, that will also reign supreme amongst the signature colors of next winter. Face the cold head on wrapped up in a coat or long cape that goes down to your ankles. The skirts too will be long next winter. They often fall bellow the knees and all the way to the ankles. The waists are high, and lengthen the silhouettes. In conclusion, don’t forget the trend: the masculin-feminin, the tomboy looks, the items that we’ve stolen from our boyfriends as well as the pantsuits a la Rachel Zoe, the geometric motifs and finally, the tunique dresses on pants!
Natacha Steven is a French fashion blogger living in NYC reporting from Paris Fashion Week exclusively for The ZOE Report—follow the rest of her adventures right here on tumblr (and after you do so, go check out the rest of her awesome site!)